How a Nicho Bamboo Rod is made

Selection

One of the most important points in the making of a fine bamboo rod starts by carefully selecting the correct culm.
The bamboo I use is the finest quality Tonkin.
First it is checked for colour, a nice even straw shade is desirable as this indicates that the culm has been adequately dried out. Then it is checked for any defects, such as insect boreholes or burn marks (these are caused by a straightening process in china). Finally, and most importantly, the correct power fibre depth for the desired rod is selected. For example, at the ferrule station I make sure that the diameter consists of 100% power fibres; this ensures maximum strength where the rod requires it most.

Tonkin Bamboo Poles

If the rod is to be a flamed model the culm is split into two halfs and it is flamed at this stage.

Flaming a Bamboo Culm With a Gas Torch

Preparation of the rod sections

1. I begin hand splitting the culm into strips to ensure the natural grain is followed.
These strips are known as spines.

Hand Split Sections

2. The nodes are dressed by filing and sanding to make them smooth.

3. The spines are then heated to remove any crooked sections.

Sections are Heated at the Nodes with a Spirit Lamp to Straighten.

4. The spines are then individually staggered to ensure that no two nodes lie adjacent to one another in the completed rod otherwise weaknesses will occur.

5. Sections are then rough planed by hand to convert them into 60-degree equilateral triangles.

6. They are then heat treated to drive out excess moisture. This is very important as it gives the finished rod greater resilience -the ability to return back to its original form after flexing.

My Bamboo Oven

7. The rod sections are then hand planed in a special steel planing form. The measurements are regularly checked with a micrometer. I work to tolerances of one thousands of an inch. Working to these accuracies are only possible with the hand planing method.

8. The sections are then glued and bound tightly and left to dry.

9. The bindings are removed along with any excess glue. At this stage the glued up sections are known as a 'blank.'

10. The blank is cut to length and straightened where necessary.

Tapered Spines

Fittings

After so much time has been taken in the making of the blank I feel it is appropriate to use only the best quality fittings.
The ferrules and the reel seats are nickel silver, the handles are flor grade cork, the guides are hard chrome, and the snake rings are stainless steel whipped in place with pure silk thread.
Each rod is then inscribed with the relevant information and signed.

Nickel Silver Reel Seats

Varnishing

The rod is now varnished three times and polished to give the perfect finish.
Each rod is thoroughly inspected before it leaves my workshop.